Parts Needed:
- 3 studs for the head (The 3 bottom ones are too big to use for the header)
Tools Needed:
Problems That You May Come Across:
- 1) RUSTY BOLTS --Some bolts are rust weilded on. SOLUTION = WD40 would be good to have a round but sometimes cutting it off would be a better choice.(As seen in picture 3)
- 2) STUCK NUT-- The EGR tube nut that is stuck on the manifold can be bought individually at a Ford dealer only.(at least thats the case for me)
Remove the 8 nuts from the studs. NOTE: The nut located on the left side of the 1st cylnder will be some what difficult to remove, it is do'able w/out removing the alternator. If you have A/C you will also need to remove the the A/C line brace from the alternator w/ a 10mm socket.
This is prolly the best why of removing your old exhust. If you where wondering I'm using a ROTOSIP. If you don't have one I highly suggest getting one, makes live A LOT easyer.
This is how it should look like when its out, as you can see I just un-bolted the manifold and cut off the bolts that hold the down pipe and the mid-section of the exhust together.
You more than likely have to cut the exhust pipe right in front of the back tire so you can easyly remove the muffer and portions of the exhust line.
This is what it will look like with out the manifold on. There are 8 studs and nuts all together. This might be a good time to repace both to make the install a little easyier
,but the original may still do. When putting on new or old STUDS remember to put some blue "Loc-tite" on the end of the stud going into the cylnder head. This will help you when installing the headder
and torquing down the nuts.
This Is what it should look like with the header installed. When Installing the header remember to put temperature rated gasket sealent on both sides of the gasket before installing it on the header or
cylnder head. When torquing down the header nuts, do so in a center to out pattern. Meaning tighten down the two center nuts too about snug and then to the left of the center two nuts, then to the right (pretty much back and forth) untill
all are snug. Then you can go back and torque the nuts to torque specs in the same pattern you did to snug them. The reason why you want to snug the nuts first is to give an nice even pressure against the head.
